"Underwear" became "lingerie", "drawers" became "knickers," in keeping with moral tastes, yet petticoat fabrics became flimsy. Only two were worn. The topmost petticoat was coloured and referred to as an "underskirt". It became fluffy and frilly, especially for evening wear. These contained a train highly decorated with rows of satin ribbon, frills and deep flounces. Fabrics used were glace silk, batiste, lawn, cambric, moirette.

During the pre-World War I years, the Princess petticoat was in high demand, often made of crepe de Chine. Skirts became narrower and the petticoat became "almost tubular". There was a brief revival of wide skirts from 1915-1916: fitted at the hips and wide at the hem.

By the end of the war years, the petticoat became a serious and much simplified affair, though retaining embroidery and threaded ribbon trim.

From 1919-1939 the Princess petticoat was worn except for evening dress, and after the war was known as the Princess slip, then just "slip". They were made of various flimsy fabrics: silk Milanese, crepe de Chine, silk, and georgette, tricot and washing satin. They became fitted to the natural waist and sometimes were made with a brassiere top, or a shaped waistband to which knickers were attached. A rustling petticoat was often worn under an evening crinoline dress in 1931

Petticoats were revived by Christian Dior in his full-skirted New Look of 1947 and tiered, ruffled, stiffened petticoats remained extremely popular during the 1950s, especially with teenage girls.

By the middle of the 20th century, the full petticoat was somewhat rare, having been commonly replaced by simple, ungathered underskirts (UK) or half slips (US).

Ruffled white or unbleached cotton petticoats were a brief fashion under Prairie skirts in the 1970s, and remain a component of Western wear. Short, full petticoats in the 1950s style are also commonly worn by square dancers.

Lately the full, tiered petticoat has made a small come-back in the alternative subcultures, especially the gothic and Lolita subculture. Although the traditional purpose for the petticoat is no longer in fashion, the general design has stayed the same with minor alterations including ripping and/or the usage of bright or generally non-traditional colours.



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